From old vines in a clay-rich site, and as usual highly-selectively harvested and finished demi-sec, Chidaine’s 2005 Montlouis Clos Habert smells richly and complexly of apricot and quince preserves, toasted almonds, green tea, and honey. Rich and creamy in texture yet elegant and wafting on the palate, with a strongly chalky undertow, this is much less effusive today than the Les Tuffeaux and its equally exceptional length more overtly mineral and restrained in fruit character despite an advantage in ripeness. It needs 3-5 years to put itself in order (and will evolve over a much longer period), but I guarantee that you will be sorry if you miss it when it does!